More about Slicer for Fusion 360
Try Slicer for Fusion 360 v1.0.0; you will need 78.79 MB of free space on the hard drive. Autodesk distributes this program 100% for free. Open the Photo & Design category, the 3D Modeling subcategory, to see the software. With Windows 10/7/8.1 operating system, you can use the most preferred version that is 1.0. The most popular installer for downloading this tool is the SlicerforFusion360.exe file. Our antivirus system found the download link being safe to use.
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Have you ever wanted to cradle a giant human heart in your arms like the dragon eggs in Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire? Well now you can! I'll be showing you how to use a free program called Slicer for Fusion 360 from Autodesk to turn 3D .stl files into laser-cuttable PDF files, from choosing your STL to sanding your finished piece!
Slicer for Autodesk Fusion 360 is a tool to turn your digital 3D models into appealing artefacts. It slices and converts 3D models into 2D patterns that you can cut out of any flat material. The program also creates 3D instructions you can interact with to help build a model. It can be used as a standalone app or as an add-in for Fusion.
This technique works well for other 3D objects, but I recommend for finishing purposes that you pick a model without a lot of concavities, since they will be difficult to sand effectively.
This was one of my first creative projects using the laser cutter waaaaay back in the fall of 2015, but I'm just now writing it up. The possibilities for sculpture using this technique are incredible! I'd love to make a life-sized Operation game someday. And thankfully both technology and my technique have improved since then! Since I've learned a lot, this Instructable is more how I would do it now than how I ACTUALLY did it a couple years back.
Software:
Slicer for Fusion 360. I HIGHLY recommend Fusion 360 for 3D modeling, and I will provide instructions for using Slicer, even though that's not how I made this specific model. This was made using 123D Make, which is no longer available from Autodesk.
Inkscape for 2D design layout
CorelDraw (if using an Epilog laser)
Supplies:
1/8' baltic birch plywood (I used 3 36x24' sheets, with some room left over, but since I am not using a smaller laser, settings shown are for a 50 Watt 24x18' Epilog Helix)
Wood glue
Disposable paintbrushes
Grinding and sanding mandrels and sanding cylinders for a Dremel or other rotary tool
(Optional) wood stain, finishing oil, and/or polyurethane finish*
Tools:
Bastard file
Rattail files
File cleaner
Medium-coarse (120-220) and fine (400-600) sandpaper
Wood block/shim/paint stirrer for sandpaper (optional, helpful)
Rotary tool and coarse sandpaper barrels/mandrel
Hand power sander
Dust mask
Vacuum
Goggles/safety glasses
*this heart is NOT FINISHED with any kind of stain, oil, or polish—before applying any of these things, test them ON THE EDGE GRAIN (the edges of the wood where all the layers of veneer are visible) of your wood. Edge grain absorbs these products VERY differently than the face grain of a piece of wood does, and treatment of any kind can emphasize the natural color differences between layers and pieces of wood. If you plan on taking your object on display where it can be handled and exposed to temperature differences, I recommend treating it with an oil such as Tung Oil or rub-on polyurethane, to keep it from absorbing moisture (expansion and contraction of the layers will gradually cause them to separate) and dirt and oil from hands (plus the ever-present threat of coffee stains etc.). I don't recommend spray-on finishes as these will tend to collect in crevices and give it a shiny, plasticy look.